Sick as a dog on the banks of the Nile

It seems the theme of our time here is a study in contrasts.

A first-time mom pushing out her perfect, chubby, crying boy surrounded by four clapping, cheering sisters. The desparation of a new grandmother searching for life in her new baby granddaughter who not live through her first day. Each day is a roller coaster of extreme emotions. Life, death; joy, pain. It is no wonder that we collapse under our nets at 8:30 each night.

Given the journey thus far, I should not have been surprised to find myself surrounded by a tropical paradise of birds and flowers on our first weekend off, purging my guts out. The gastrointestinal upset lasted only 24 hours and I was nursed by 5 loving midwifery student attendants who just wished they had supplies to start up some IV fluids.

The learning here is only partly about midwifery skills - it is also about this balancing, tipping of the scales...the inequity in the world, the precariousness of life, the strength of women birthing while struggling with malaria, the perseverance of midwives working with extremely inadequate resources. I am awed every day.